LE MOINE 2013
- 2013 Beaune “Clos des Mouches” 1er red (86-89)
- 2013 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru red (93-95)
- 2013 Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru red (93-96)
- 2013 Chambolle-Musigny “Les Amoureuses” 1er red (92-95)
- 2013 Chambolle-Musigny “Les Charmes” 1er red (91-93)
- 2013 Chambolle-Musigny “Haut Doix” 1er red (90-92)
- 2013 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru red (91-94)
- 2013 Chassagne-Montrachet “Morgeot” 1er red (88-91)
- 2013 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru red (92-95)
- 2013 Clos St. Denis Grand Cru red (92-95)
- 2013 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru red (91-94)
- 2013 Corton-Renardes Grand Cru red (91-94)
- 2013 Echézeaux Grand Cru red (90-93)
- 2013 Gevrey-Chambertin “Cazetiers” 1er red (91-94)
- 2013 Gevrey-Chambertin “Estournelles St. Jacques” 1er red (91-93)
- 2013 Gevrey-Chambertin “Lavaut St. Jacques” 1er red (91-93)
- 2013 Grands Echézeaux Grand Cru red (92-95)
- 2013 Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru red (92-95)
- 2013 Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru red (92-94)
- 2013 Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru red (93-95)
- 2013 Musigny Grand Cru red (94-96)
- 2013 Nuits St. Georges “Les Cailles” 1er red (90-93)
- 2013 Nuits St. Georges “Clos des Argillières” 1er red (89-91)
- 2013 Nuits St. Georges “Les St. Georges” 1er red (91-93)
- 2013 Nuits St. Georges “Les Vaucrains” 1er red (91-94)
- 2013 Pommard “La Chanière” 1er red (89-92)
- 2013 Pommard “Les Epenots” 1er red (88-91)
- 2013 Pommard “Les Grands Epenots” 1er red (88-91)
- 2013 Pommard “Les Rugiens” 1er red (90-92)
- 2013 Pommard “Clos de Verger” 1er red (88-90)
- 2013 Volnay “Brouillards” 1er red (86-89)
- 2013 Volnay “Les Caillerets” 1er red (89-91)
- 2013 Volnay “Clos des Chênes” 1er red (89-91)
- 2013 Volnay “Santenots” 1er red (88-91)
- 2013 Vosne-Romanée “Les Gaudichots” 1er red (92-95)
- 2013 Vosne-Romanée “Les Malconsorts” 1er red (92-94)
- 2013 Vosne-Romanée “Petits Monts” 1er red (91-93?)
- 2013 Vosne-Romanée “Les Suchots” 1er red (91-94)
Mounir and Rotem Saouma established their two-person micro-négoce in 1999 that focuses exclusively on the very best 1ers and grands crus. They describe the 2013 as a “genuinely great vintage if you waited to pick, which many people did not because of the rot that was threatening the fruit after the October 5th and 6th rain. The extra time allowed the tannins to further ripen and the acidities to fall and it is this combination of low yields, ripe phenolics, bright but balanced acidities and relatively low alcohols that make the 2013s so great. Their behavior during the élevage has also been very curious because for between 3 and 6 months the wines just disappeared in a manner of speaking and we really weren’t sure what was happening.
Once the malos were finished though the wines just exploded in a manner of speaking and have put on weight and depth each month since. For us 2013 is an absolutely classic vintage, in fact the term old school is perfectly apt. The wines have intensity and transparency and for those clients who have the patience to wait are going to be very richly rewarded with some fantastic experiences.” As is often the case at this address, at the time of my February visit the wines had been neither racked nor sulfured and as such many were noticeably reduced. I appreciate that this makes for boring tasting notes when reduction is constantly being cited as suppressing the fruit but if that is what I find then it is incumbent upon me to say so. I underscore that reduction in cask does not necessarily mean that the wine will be reduced in bottle so you shouldn’t be unduly concerned by this. In terms of enjoying the Le Moine wines, one point that bears mentioning is that the wines always have noticeable CO2 and thus they should absolutely be decanted.
2013 Beaune “Clos des Mouches”: A very fresh nose presents notes of red cherry, raspberry, rose petal and earth. There is fine verve and detail to the light to barely middle weight flavors that terminate in a lingering finish of contrasts as there is an innate sweetness as well as a touch of austerity. (86-89)/2018+
2013 Chassagne-Montrachet “Morgeot”: Here the nose is less elegant but more complex with a slightly riper yet still very fresh array of red and dark berries, pepper and soft earth scents. There is more volume and intensity to the delicious and punchy flavors where the supporting tannins are more refined than usual on the nicely balanced finale. (88-91)/2019+
2013 Pommard “La Chanière”: A discreet application of wood frames exceptionally fresh, cool and pretty aromas that are comprised of the essence of red cherry and raspberry along with hints of herbal tea, spice and soft earth. There is an equally cool and pure mouth feel to the medium-bodied flavors that possess really lovely delineation before terminating in a vibrant, complex and persistent finish that exhibits only a trace of youthful austerity. (89-92)/2021+
2013 Pommard “Clos de Verger”: A more deeply pitched nose reveals a markedly earthier mix of less elegant but more intricately layered aromas of mostly red and dark currant scents. There is fine volume and lovely richness to the medium weight, muscular and intense flavors that deliver acceptable depth and length on the balanced finish which, like the Clos des Mouches, contrasts mild sweetness with a touch of austerity. (88-90)/2021+
2013 Pommard “Les Epenots”: (from Petits Epenots). An expressive nose demonstrates more obvious wood treatment that fights a bit with the otherwise attractive and fresh aromas of dark raspberry liqueur, violet, plum and earth. There is excellent volume to the velvet-textured medium-bodied flavors that possess a lush and caressing mouth feel, all wrapped in a lingering if ever-so-mildly drying finish though it’s possible that the dryness is related to the abundant gas. (88-91)/2021+
2013 Pommard “Les Grands Epenots”: (20% whole cluster). Here the nose openly proclaims the whole cluster vinification as there is a plethora of floral elements on parade along with exotic tea, red currant and subtle spice nuances. There is a refined and admirably pure mouth feel to the bigger and slightly richer medium weight flavors that terminate in a slightly bitter finish that also exhibits a trace of asperity. I doubt that the bitterness will last though the asperity might and my overall take is that while this offers a number of positives the balance isn’t perfect. (88-91)/2021+
2013 Pommard “Les Rugiens”: (from both upper and lower). A strikingly pretty nose features aromas of essence of red pinot fruit, stone, rose petal and tea. There is terrific tension and detail to the mineral-inflected and powerful yet silky middle weight flavors that also display just a hint of bitterness that I attribute to the abundant gas. At present the balance is not picture perfect but there is still plenty to like. (90-92)/2023+
2013 Volnay “Brouillards”: There is enough wood to notice if not so much as to dominate the very fresh and pure combination of various red berries, earth and soft spice hints. There is an equally cool and restrained mouth feel to the vibrant middle weight flavors that culminate in a chewy, austere and mildly drying finish. This may come together but I have my doubts. (86-89)/2019+
2013 Volnay “Clos des Chênes”: This too exhibits a cool, pure and slightly riper array of red and blue pinot fruit, anise, Asian-style tea and violet scents. There is notably more size and weight to the bold yet refined medium-bodied flavors that exude a fine mineral streak that adds a bit of lift to the lingering finish that also displays a hint of dryness but in this case there appears to be a much better chance that the balance will harmonize in time. (89-91)/2023+
2013 Volnay “Les Caillerets”: Floral style reduction (bourgeon de cassis) overshadows the nose. There is fine energy and that lovely underlying tension to the delineated and mineral-driven middle weight flavors that possess fine depth and reasonably good length though the balance is once again not completely perfect. Still this is quite good. (89-91)/2023+
2013 Volnay “Santenots”: A discreet but not invisible touch of wood sets off unusually high-toned aromas of cranberry, lilac, raspberry and cherry. There is a beguiling texture to the well-detailed and vibrant medium weight flavors that terminate in an ever-so-mildly dry finish that still delivers impressive length. This could very well come together because when a finish is mildly dry yet persistent it suggests that the supporting tannins are reasonably ripe. (88-91)/2021+
2013 Nuits St. Georges “Clos des Argillières”: Floral-based reduction pushes the fruit to the background though there is good freshness to the delineated, intense and lightly stony flavors that deliver fine length on the balanced but only moderately complex finish. It’s possible that this will develop more depth than my predicted range encompasses but I would prefer to remain conservative at this early juncture. (89-91)/2021+
2013 Nuits St. Georges “Les Cailles”: Soft reduction and wood all but render the fruit invisible. By contrast there is a lovely sense of energy and freshness to the wonderfully pure, dense and stony medium-bodied flavors that deliver outstanding length on the balanced and impressively persistent finish. This is textbook and worth considering. (90-93)/2023+
2013 Nuits St. Georges “Les St. Georges”: Heavy reduction blocks an evaluation of the nose. The medium weight plus flavors possess more volume but less finesse and refinement along with ample minerality, all wrapped in a sleekly muscular, intense and palate coating finale that delivers outstanding depth, length and balance on the linear finish. (91-93)/2025+
2013 Nuits St. Georges “Les Vaucrains”: An overtly sauvage infused nose reflects notes of red and dark currant, various floral elements and plenty of spice and pungent earth aromas. Here too there is excellent volume and intensity to the powerful, concentrated and palate coating flavors that conclude in an explosively long, serious and exceptionally firm yet not particularly austere finish. This is terrific but note that it’s a good buy only if you have plenty of patience. (91-94)/2028+
2013 Gevrey-Chambertin “Estournelles St. Jacques”: Generous if not dominate wood fights somewhat with the otherwise ultra-pure and fresh aromas of distilled red pinot fruit, earth, spice, floral and underbrush nuances. There is really lovely detail to the wonderfully refined and equally pure medium-bodied flavors that seem to be built on a base of firm minerality that really comes to the fore on the dusty and tension-filled finale. This too is a textbook example. (91-93)/2025+
2013 Gevrey-Chambertin “Lavaut St. Jacques”: A pure nose features notes of cherry and earth and game and the oak influence is all but invisible. I very much like the sense of focused power and really lovely delineation on the muscular flavors that are notably less refined than those of the ESJ yet there is more size, weight and depth on the dusty, austere and impressively persistent finish. This robust and very firmly structured effort is also entirely typical in the context of a classic Lavaut. (91-93)/2028+
2013 Gevrey-Chambertin “Cazetiers”: Here the wood treatment is neither aggressive nor subtle as it still allows the brooding aromas of plum, violet, earth, smoke and game aromas to be appreciated. This is the biggest of the three Gevrey 1ers with excellent volume, mid-palate concentration, power and minerality that continues onto the precise, muscular and palate soaking finish that is also very firmly structured, indeed this is chewy to the point of rusticity. The marvelous depth though makes this worth the price of admission though once again I underscore that this is only for the patient. (91-94)/2028+
2013 Vosne-Romanée “Les Suchots”: (from the upper portion of the vineyard). A completely different nose is, as one might reasonably expect, much spicier with its layered array of various dark berries, floral and sandalwood scents. There is firstclass volume to the concentrated, velvety and palate coating flavors that possess an abundance of dry extract that adds a seductive texture to the finish as well as does a fine job of buffering the firm but not hard tannic spine on the strikingly persistent backend. This is clearly built-to-age yet there is only moderate austerity. (91-94)/2025+
2013 Vosne-Romanée “Petits Monts”: Strong reduction masks the underlying fruit. Otherwise there is a lovely freshness and tension to the beautifully precise and focused middle weight flavors that exhibit notably more minerality than the Suchots, all wrapped in a refined and lingering finish where the reduction telegraphed by the nose reappears. Note that my predicted range offers the benefit of the doubt as reduction on the palate is a cause for concern though it’s impossible to know beforehand whether the racking that precedes the bottling will clear it up or not. (91-93?)/2025+
2013 Vosne-Romanée “Les Malconsorts”: Floral-based reduction once again renders the nose unreadable. Whereas the Petits Monts is a wine of refinement the Malconsorts is a robust and overtly powerful wine with big-bodied flavors that display almost as much minerality on the very firm, serious and explosively long finish. This is very much a Malconsorts and that is also true in terms of its potential longevity; in short, don’t buy this if you’re not prepared to wait. (92-94)/2028+
2013 Chambolle-Musigny “Les Charmes”: Here there are no reductive issues as the beautifully fresh and pure nose presents notes of red currant, violet, rose petal, anise and sandalwood. There is fine richness and a lovely sense of underlying tension to the lightly mineral-inflected flavors that possess a silky mouth feel that continues onto the dusty, balanced and strikingly persistent finish. This is a Charmes of finesse and refinement. (91-93)/2021+
2013 Chambolle-Musigny “Haut Doix”: There is a note of herbal tea to the otherwise similar nose of violet, red currant and sandalwood. The lilting and even more refined middle weight flavors possess excellent verve though not the same depth of material nor do they deliver quite the same persistence. To be sure this is very pretty and very Chambolle too but I don’t believe it will quite match the Charmes when it arrives at its full maturity. (90-92)/2021+
2013 Chambolle-Musigny “Les Amoureuses”: A spicy, cool and markedly restrained nose of spice, tea, dried flowers and red currant is less expressive than either of its two Chambolle 1er counterparts though it is at once more elegant and more complex. The ultra-refined, intense and intensely mineral-driven medium weight flavors seem to vibrate with energy before gracefully culminating in an equally pure, refined, dusty and gorgeously complex finale. While this can’t match the size, weight and power of the best grands crus, this is a jaw droppingly pretty exercise in harmony and transparency. (92-95)/2025+
2013 Corton-Renardes: In much the same fashion as the Cazetiers the wood treatment is neither aggressive nor subtle as the overtly sauvage inflected aromas of plum, earth and floral scents can be appreciated but the wood doesn’t make it any easier. There is outstanding size, weight, concentration and muscle to the mouth coating and impressively intense big-bodied flavors that exude a discreet minerality on the clearly built-to-age finish. Patience absolutely required. (91-94)/2028+
2013 Clos de la Roche: While the wood treatment is by no means invisible it is more modulated than the Renardes with its lovely spice elements adding both elegance and breadth to the distinctly earthy and very fresh red berry liqueur-like aromas. Here too there is first-rate size, weight and punch to the powerful broad-shouldered flavors that are shaped by equally firm tannins on the dusty, palate coating and strikingly long finish. Yet again, patience is indispensable. (92-95)/2028+
2013 Clos St. Denis: (from 90+ year old vines). This is also quite spicy with a slightly more refined nose that features a relatively high-toned nose of essence of red currant that displays top notes of exotic tea and floral scents. There is terrific midpalate concentration that brims with dry extract that imparts a relatively seductive mouth feel to the medium-bodied flavors and largely, if not completely, buffers the moderately firm tannic spine. In contrast to many of these grands crus this should be accessible slightly earlier though if you’re interested in drinking it when it’s fully mature, plan on waiting. (92-95)/2025+
2013 Clos de Vougeot: This is restrained to the point of being almost mute though aggressive swirling does reveal darker fruit and soft earth aromas. The intense, detailed and overtly powerful flavors possess solid size, punch and concentration before terminating in a lingering and balanced finish that is less youthfully austere and rustic than usual. (91-94)/2025+
2013 Echézeaux: (from En Orveaux; 33% whole cluster). A modulated application of wood still allows the subtly spicy nose of red and black currant, floral and exotic tea-infused aromas to shine. There is a wonderfully seductive mouth feel to the velvety middle weight flavors that exude a delicate minerality on the firm, dusty and lingering finish. I like this though it’s not as complex as the best here. I should also point out that as Ech goes this is firmly structured so be patient. (90-93)/2025+
2013 Grands Echézeaux: An intensely floral nose is comprised by unusually high-toned aromas of mostly red cherry along with a variety of spice elements that include dried orange peel, sandalwood and anise. There is terrific power and intensity to the imposingly scaled flavors that coat the palate with both dry extract and very firm tannins on the hugely long finish. This is a big example of the appellation and is going to require lots of cellar time. (92-95)/2028+
2013 Charmes-Chambertin: (from both Charmes and Mazoyères). A beautifully complex nose combines notes of the sauvage, underbrush, green tea, earth and a whiff of smoked meat character. The rich and full-bodied flavors possess fine mid-palate concentration as well as solid delineation before culminating in a rustic, mouth coating and impressively persistent finish that possess an almost chewy texture. Once again, patience is a prerequisite. (91-94)/2028+
2013 Latricières-Chambertin: A notably more elegant nose is composed of cool and airy essence of red pinot, wet stone and floral nuances. Consistent with the nose the palate impression of the racy and intense medium-bodied flavors are notably finer thanks to the firm but fine tannins that shape the finish on the focused, serious and austere finale. This isn’t quite as complex at present but this has such a long future in front of it that it will almost certainly match the depth of the Charmes by the time it reaches its apogee. (92-94)/2028+
2013 Griotte-Chambertin: This is aromatically quite similar to the Latricières if perhaps the wet stone component is a bit less prominent and this is also true for the equally pure, cool and restrained flavors that possess a really lovely sense of underlying tension, all wrapped in a firm, classy and gorgeously long finish. This is terrific though once again, it’s pointless to buy this if you’re not prepared to cellar it at least 8 to 10 years. (92-95)/2028+
2013 Mazis-Chambertin: (from both Mazis-Haut and Bas). Noticeable wood surrounds the overtly sauvage and wonderfully complex red and dark currant aromas that are copiously laced with earth, floral and humus scents. There is equally fine depth to the big-bodied, powerful and concentrated flavors that also exhibit plenty of minerality that continues onto the youthfully austere, serious and very firmly structured finale that just goes on and on. This is marvelous but at the risk of sounding like a broken record, don’t buy this absent a steadfast intention to cellar it at least a decade. (93-95)/2028+
2013 Chambertin-Clos de Bèze: This too is strikingly complex though the aromatic profile is not at all the same as this is much spicier with layered red berry fruit, earth, exotic tea and forest floor aromas that are much less sauvage-inflected. The spice characters continue onto the very rich and imposingly scaled, intense and delineated broad-shouldered flavors that possess an overt muscularity and power, all wrapped in a tension-filled, austere and very firm finish. This is a big Clos de Bèze with a stiff but not hard tannic spine that will require a very long snooze in a cold cellar. (93-96)/2030+
2013 Bonnes Mares: (from both Chambolle and Morey). This is at once aromatically elegant and restrained with its spice and openly floral inflected nose that is trimmed in just enough wood to notice. The mouth feel of the large-scaled flavors contrast a relatively supple and accessible mid-palate against the tension-filled and very firm tannins on the finish that delivers superb depth and length. Still, the overall impression is unusually refined in the context of what is typical for the appellation and unlike most of these grands crus, this could be drunk with pleasure after 7 to 8 years or so. (93-95)/2028+
2013 Musigny: Here the nose offers up fireworks in a glass as the super-complex and ultra-floral aromas are spicy, pure and broad-ranging and it’s largely pointless to try to describe all of them; suffice it to say that the sheer breadth of scents is scintillating. The velvety, refined and focused medium weight plus flavors are innately powerful before terminating in an explosively long wood-tinged finish that is equally complex, moderately austere and palate drenching. This is not as big as the Clos de Bèze though it’s finer even though the supporting tannins will require just as long to fully resolve. (94-96)/2030+
2013 Vosne-Romanée “Les Gaudichots”: Reduction flattens the fruit though there is a wonderful vibrancy and freshness to the intensely mineral-driven flavors that possess a silky mid-palate mouth feel while delivering outstanding length on the moderately firm finish where the stems that were clearly used in the vinification surface. This could quite aptly be described as “Zen” as the harmony of expression is altogether lovely. In a word, impressive. (92-95)/2025+ |
